Change of Plans and a Water War

I am writing from the safe confines of the language institute. Virtually all other places in the city are danger zones. Today is the major holiday of Carnival and all of the schools are out and most businesses closed, which means that what seems like most of the city are out in the streets fighting with water. The Bolivian tradition of throwing water balloons, using squirt guns and throwing buckets of water has reached a crescendo today after building up since the beginning of February.

On top of the Mountain

Riding to the Institute today, I was assailed by barrage after barrage of water balloons and squirt-gun fire. I was prepared today however and was packing some heat in my jacket pocket. Making eye contact with an innocent looking child up the road who was in the act of pumping his super soaker in anticipation of my arrival, I put some force on the pedals and slyly slid my hand around to my back pocket grasping my balloon. As I approached and the boy opened fire, I deftly removed the balloon from my pocket and launched at the unsuspecting assailant. A direct hit to the torso at 20 mph clearly startled the youngster and quickly stopped the incoming fire. Riding away I felt a great sense of satisfaction as today was the first day since February 1st that I have been able to defend myself from the daily barrage. I have taken several right in the face from passing cars. So I really don’t feel bad about nailing the kid who was shooting at me today. In addition to the water, incense fills the air as the Cochabambinos make offerings to Pachu Mama. Fireworks have also been exploding regularly throughout the day. Carnival is quite a sight here and the real celebration isn’t until next week when the parades of dancers will march through the streets.

So instead of returning from Peru today as I reported last week, I returned from the small village of Aramasi where I spent the weekend with two friends from the Institute. So last Friday after my post, I was informed by a priest that LAB (the national airline and the only carrier that goes from Cuzco to CBBA) had cancelled all international flights for two weeks because of a fuel shortage. Incredulous, I began the process of contacting the Airline and finding out what was the problem. After two comical trips to the central office of LAB in the city, I was confident that eventually we would receive a refund for our tickets. I am amazed that a major airline would cancel all international flights for two weeks, but I am starting to realize that Bolivia doesn’t run on the same precise bureaucratic system as the US does. So with our trip cancelled, and with the rest of our classmates already with reservations to visit Oruro, the site of a world renowned Carnival celebration, myself and two friends, Neil and Kim, planned a trip to the tiny village of Aramasi high in the Andes. The Amistad Mission runs a clinic in Aramasi that serves not only the two hundred or so inhabitants of that village, but also nine neighboring communities. There is also a retreat center in Aramasi for friends of the Mission (I had visited in 2005 with Christ Church). The retreat center consists of several small hermitages or hermitas, and is intended as a place for prayer and reflection. We were able to get a ride into the town with Dr. Rudolpho, who is the doctor serving at the clinic. The ride to Aramasi is 73 km south on the road to Oruro, a drive straight up into the mountains that rises from the 8500 feet of CBBA to 13800 feet. From there we tucked down very small dirt road that descends for 15 miles into the valley to Aramasi. The journey there was breathtaking the town itself is gorgeous. All around are the peaks of the Andes with no sign of development other than subsistence agriculture and some adobe huts for hundreds of miles.

Neil and I in Aramasi

We had an awesome time of relaxation, reflection, prayer, fellowship, and of course some vigorous exercise. From where we were staying, I could see one peak in the distance that towered above the landscape. It was my natural inclination to want to summit that peak, which was about 14500 feet tall (Aramasi is about 10500 feet). It was quite a challenge with a lot of climbing on all fours as it was very steep and rocky at points. We made it to the top in after three hours of strenuous hiking and climbing. The vista was incredible and well worth the journey.

The mountain we climbed

So after four days and three relaxing nights in Aramasi we returned to CBBA this morning. The break from classes was much needed and I am looking forward to getting my third set of four new teachers this week. After having been here for over a month, I feel that I have completely adjusted to living here and I am continually encouraged by my improvements in Spanish.

Thanks for reading and for your prayers and support. Happy Ash Wednesday.

Gray
grayskinner@hotmail.com

The kids of Casa Kantuta

Another wonderful week

So it has been another fantastic and challenging week here in Bolivia. Changing to the new schedule has been a bit of an adjustment, and I have had a bit less time for relaxing, but I am really enjoying having the afternoons free to spend time with the kids at the Villa. This week I have also really enjoyed attending mass in the mornings at the church near the language institute. Mass is said at 7 each morning and it is a very pleasant way to begin the day. It’s about a 20 minute ride from the Villa to the church so I have to leave pretty early. I have been getting up at 5:30 to study and so that I can make it to mass by 7. Classes start at 8 and when they are over at 12, I feel as if I have already had a full day. But the day has really just begun as I make the trek back to the Villa for lunch and afternoon activities.

Life here the last few weeks could be aptly described as “hyper-living” as simply everyday activities can become serious challenges. I feel that this feeling is gradually subsiding as I get more comfortable with the language and more settled in my living situation. It is quite a relief and hopefully I will have more energy to spend on other more important objectives. Today I experienced a small victory in classes after a very tough week. During my first classes I was speaking rather effortlessly and that was very encouraging. The progress is slow and is a test of my patience, but after three weeks of study, I am quite pleased with my progress.

The activity I have most enjoyed is the Sala de Lectura or reading room. After lunch I spend a few hours reading with the kids or to them. This is a great opportunity for me to not only work on my Spanish, but also to help the kids develop their reading skills. My work with the Nashville Adult Literacy Council this fall has proved very useful not only in my learning of Spanish but also in my work with the kids. It also helped to instill in me the importance of reading. I cannot think of a more valuable tool to give someone than the ability to read. Through reading one can discover new opportunities and possibly broaden one’s perspective on his or her position. This is one of the few tools that can directly enable a person to improve his or her life.

Another issue that has been occupying my thoughts the last few weeks is the different approaches to micro development and poverty alleviation. I have had several enlightening conversations with locals and other Americans from the Peace Corps that have been here for a few years. The question of sustainable development always comes up and while I do not yet have a firm grasp on many of the complexities of the issue, I am very intrigued by the different approaches. I will try and write more on this in the next few weeks. More on the macro level, I am reading a good book by William Powers called “Whispering in the Giant’s Ear” which details many of Bolivia’s challenges with globalization from an environmental standpoint.

Last Sunday I had my first opportunity to do some serious biking here. I set out from the Villa around 8 and headed west of Cochabamba to the towns of Tiquipaya and El Paso. It was quite an adventure and I got in a good 5 hours of riding. I am pretty adjusted to the altitude now and it was a nice ride. I really enjoyed seeing another part of Bolivia besides the city. The views of the mountains are spectacular and I really enjoy finding interesting new places on the bike. I also met some other bikers and I am planning a trip with them this Sunday. Look for more pictures in the next few weeks.

While many of the students of the institute will be traveling to Ouruo for the celebration of Carneval next week, myself and two of my good friends here have decided to visit Machu Picchu in Peru. We will leave on Saturday the 17th and return late on the 20th. I wish we had more time to visit there, but I am glad for the opportunity to at least see the ruins. Carneval is a really big deal down here and the 19th and 20th are national holidays. I don’t have much interest in the revelry, but I do appreciate the break from classes.

Thanks again for reading. Feel free to post a comment below or email me at grayskinner@hotmail.com

Gray


Some sunsets from the Villa An interesting place i found on my bike

Reflections on Another Week

Hello again from Cochabamba. The past week of classes has been challenging but very fruitful. I have really enjoyed my teachers and each of them has been excellent. Every two weeks we change teachers so I will have four new teachers next week and classes will be in the morning from 8 until 12. I am looking forward to this change of schedule as it will permit me more time to work with the kids at the Villa. Here is the schedule for the next two weeks:

8-12 classes
1230 – Lunch at the villa
1-2:30 – Sala de Lectura (reading with the kids)
3-4 – Individual time in each House
4-5:30 – Sports with the Kids
6:30 - Dinner in one of the houses

The days will continue to be very busy, but I am looking forward to having more structured time with the kids.
The weather here has been magnificent. The highs are around 80 every day with beautiful sun (although it can be a bit intense at times) and lows in the 60s at night. It is perfect weather and there is no need for AC or heat. I keep my windows open throughout the day. If you look on the weather channel website the forecast for Cochabamba is rather bleak with a 60 percent chance of rain everyday. I dont think anyone is actually looking at any kind of radar though because it has rained only one day in the last three weeks. So basically the weather is perfect everyday.
The only unfortunate part of my trip thusfar has been maintaining my weight. I left at 178lbs, after 5 days I was 175, and after 12 I was 169. I am afraid that number is still dropping because my energy expenditure has been rather high the last few days.


I thought I would share with you all some reflections on the past week here.

The last few weeks I have experienced both the joys of being understood, and the frustrations of being limited in expression by language. Something I have always taken for granted is the ability to be understood. I have come to truly appreciate the simple communication between two people of different languages. It seems as if the cultural barriers melt away when successful communication is achieved. I have been experiencing this joy on a more frequent basis the last few days. It is such a simple thing, but I am encouraged by being able to make the first step in forming relationships with many of the people here. These small joys bring me daily comfort when I am faced with the challenges of not understanding one of the kids or not being able to fully express what I wish to say.

For me it has been easy to forget that the kids I am living with are all orphans. Their living arrangements are very nice and they just seem like large families of brothers and sisters with a Tia or Mama. Almost all of them are very well behaved incredibly loving. Yesterday I was shocked back to reality when after having been asked my birthday by one of the kids, I asked another when his was. He said that he didn’t know and I was immediately reminded that some of these incredibly loving and well taken care of kids have never celebrated a birthday or even had anyone in their lives that cared enough to remind them of their birthday every year. I felt terrible for asking him, but it reminded me of how much these kids need people to support them and care for them in their lives. I am incredibly blessed to have to opportunity to serve these kids and look forward to every day that I can sow into their lives.

Thanks for your continued prayers and thoughts.
Gray

Raul and I with my bike